C3 Shark Tank

everything you need to know

The Control Valve

1

To remove the control cylinder and the control valve, you will need a Pitman Arm or ball joint removal tool. It’s other name is a pickle fork.

2

Start the rebuilding of each component by throughly cleaning itin a non-toxic solvent parts wash.

3

To remove the control valve from the car, raise the vehicle off the ground and place it securely on jack stands. Remove the bolt that connects the relay rod to the control valve clamp. Disconnect the power steering hoses and let them drain into a catch pan. Remove the control valve ball stud from the pitman arm. Turn the arm to the right, clear of the control valve, and unscrew the control valve from the drag link. Then place the control valve into a vise and carefully remove the dust cover.

4

With a socket and rachet, remove the adjusting nut. I always like to count the number of turns it takes to remove the nut. This way, I have some idea of how tight it should be when it comes time for reassembly.

5

The valve’s adapter bolts can now be removed. This will allow you to remove the valve housing and spool.

6

After the adapter bolts have been taken off, carefully remove the spool from the valve housing.

7

Now remove the spring, O-ring, valve reaction spool, spring thrust washer, valve spring, spring retainer, annulus seal, annulus spacer gasket and valve shaft washer from the adapter. It’s a good idea to place them on a clean paper towel in the order they were removed so there will be less of a chance for mistakes during reassembly. You will also be able to see exactly what parts you are replacing.

8

Carefully twist the adjuster plug out of the adapter sleeve. It is very important that you do not nick the top surface.

9

Turn the adapter upside down. This will allow the spring and one of the ball seats to fall into your hand.

10

Now remove the ball stud, the other ball seat and the ball stud boot. The sleeve will slide out of the adapter. Wash all of the removed parts in a non-toxic solvent and throughly dry. Now carefully inspect all parts for damage such as scratches, burrs, distortion or excessive wear. Replace any damaged parts now, before reassembly. Contact Zip Products to replace any damaged parts before reassembly.

11

With your inspection done and all of the parts cleaned, you are ready to begin reassembly. Start by replacing the sleeve and ball seat into the adapter. Install the ball stud and the other ball stud seat. The ball seat spring is next (small coil down). Put the adapter into a vise and place the shaft through the seat in the adjuster plug. Screw the adjuster plug into the sleeve by turning the plug until it’s tight and the slot lines line up with the notches in the sleeve.

12

Insert the plug into the sleeve key. Be sure the small tangs on the end of the key fit into the notches in the sleeve.

13

Install the valve shaft washer, gasket, annulus spacer, the reaction (annulus) seal (lip up), spring retainer, reaction spring (valve spring), valve reaction spool, spring thrust washer and valve adjustment spring. Be sure to install the O-ring seal on the spool before placing the spool on the shaft. Also, install the washer with the chamfer up.

14

Then place the vee block seal on the valve spool lip down.

15

Carefully install the spool into the housing without jamming it.

16

Place the housing and spool onto the adapter. The side ports should be on the same side as the ball stud. Bolt the housing to the adapter. Depress the valve spool, install the adjusting lock nut onto the shaft and turn it onto the shaft the same number of turns it took to take it off. If you do not remember, start with four turns.

17

Now tape off the ball stud and all of the steering hose ports and refinish the whole valve in Eastwood’s Under Hood Black to give it a like-new look.

18

Install the ball stud boot and reinstall the dust cover, but do not tap it down fully. Once installed on the car, you may have to remove it to adjust the valve. Install the control valve onto the drag link so the control valve bottoms. Then back off enough (if necessary) to install the clamping bolt. Tighten the control valve clamping bolt and assemble the ball stud to the pitman arm. Torque to specs. Fill and bleed the system, then balance the valve.


Balancing The Control Valve:

The control valve must be adjusted after being disassembled as outlined in the following procedure.

1. Install the valve in the vehicle, but leave the dust cap off. Connect all hoses and fill the pump reservoir with oil. Do not connect the piston rod to the frame bracket.

2. With the car’s front end off the ground, start the engine. One of the following two conditions will exist:
A) If the piston rod remains retracted, turn the adjusting nut clockwise until the rod begins to move out. Then turn the nut counterclockwise until the rod just begins to move in. Now turn the nut clockwise to exactly one-half the rotation needed to change the direction of the piston rod movement.
B) If the rod extends upon starting the pump, move the nut counterclockwise until the rod begins to retract, then clockwise until the rod beging to move out again. Noe position the rod to exactly one-half the rotation needed to change the direction of the piston rod movement.
CAUTION: Do not turn the nut back and forth more than is absolutely necessary to balance the valve.

3. With the valve balanced, it should be possable to move the rod in and out manually.

4. Turn off the engine and connect the cylinder rod to the frame bracket.

5. Restart the engine. If the front wheels (still off the ground) do not turn in either direction from center, the valve has been properly balanced. Correct the valve adjustment if necessary.

6. When the valve is properly adjusted, grease the end of the valve and replace the dust cap.